Steamin along in the Colorado Rockies

John and I both thought we could live in Durango. Nestled in the mountains with hiking and biking trails galore, the Animas River roaring through town offering whitewater rafting and watering holes like the Diamond Belle Saloon.....the town had a lot going for it.  

Enjoying a cooling ale at the Diamond Belle Saloon

We settled into our campsite and were kept busy running down to the rail tracks to watch and wave as each steam train came by. It really made me happy watching them rumbling by. I had a wonderful memory of growing up in our railway town.



Steam Train making it's way through our campground

Next morning we were sitting in a carriage enjoying the Animas River and canyon scenery as we swayed from side to side on our train ride up to Silverton.

Preparing to leave

Following the Animas River

Enjoying the day

Silverton

Mesa Verde NP and onto Durango

Driving south out of Moab we camped the night in Dalton Springs Campground in the Abajo Mountains and we enjoyed the cooler temperatures of around 8,000 feet. We were camped in amongst lush vegetation with groves of Aspen and Gambel Oak trees. The resident deer barely took any notice of us they grazed around the campground along with hummingbirds and butterflies.

Watching the deer in Dalton Springs campground

It was with some reluctance we left our mountain retreat and continued into Colorado and onto Mesa Verde NP. It was time to take a look back in time to see how our ancient civilizations lived. Walking up to the Rangers Station that evening we booked two tours for the next day.

Cliff Palace

Climbing down the stairs the next morning and rounding the corner Cliff Palace came into view.

Cliff Palace

The exit out of Cliff Palace

 In the afternoon we visited the Balcony House climbing lots of stairs to gain entrance to the cliff dwelling.

Entrance into Balcony House

View from Balcony House

John at Balcony House

The exit from Balcony House

Visiting Spruce Tree House

Back in Moab it was time to go Slick Rock mountain bike riding

We were in Arches NP yesterday and today we were going mountain bike riding in Moab's Slick Rock trail located in the plateau above the township. I woke to the sound my alarm at 5.30 am and already I could feel the warmness of the air.  It was forecast to be over 100 degrees today. So with no time to waste we hastily ate our breakfast and drove out to the Slick Rock Mountain Bike trail head and eagerly unloaded our bikes.

We started riding at 6.30 am. I was getting a good work out…in the first 2 miles I jumped off my bike many times and half ran as I pushed my bike up the hills, not trusting myself to ride the steep descents that grew steeper as it neared the bottom, then at the bottom bumps, ridges and sand awaited before the ascent tightly twisted upwards…I was getting tired. With 8 more miles to go I realised on this day I did not have the stamina to continue.



Making the most of the early morning coolness

Watching John riding off into the abyss

So I gave my water bottle to John and watched him disappearing and reappearing as he navigated up and down the trail until he finally disappeared. I felt disappointed in not continuing but then decided in 2 hours I would ride back out to meet him on his way back.  I filled in my time watching a tour group of riders unloading their bikes and chatting away in preparation for their ride…..it took them over an hour before they set off. Two hours slowly ticked by and I set off with some ice cold water and soon reached the point where I had turned around. In the distance I recognized a tiny speck at the Abyss Viewpoint…it  was John making his way back.

The second time out on the trail I gained a bit more confidence riding down the descents and I continued on until I caught up with him. After a cold drink and a chat we made our way back and this time we rode back via the practice loop, which was no easier that the main trail and I got another work out running up the hills.

By now it was really heating up and we both had the same idea of returning to the RV campground and cooling off in their swimming pool before heading south and into Colorado.

Canyonlands - Island in the Sky - someone had imagination

Canyonlands - Island in the Sky, lured us away from Moab. Settling into Willow Flats campground, the bugs became evident and relentless. Our usual enthusiasm had us planning an 8 mile hike the next day around Upheaval Dome. As the sun set we strolled out to Green River Overlook giving us perspective of the plateau we were standing on and the two river systems carving out canyons on either side, on their way to merging at Cataract Canyon.

My enthusiasm waned the next day...it was the bugs and the heat, and I opted for a more leisurely day driving to all the viewpoints. We seemed to get photographers fever at Mesa Arch and after visiting it during the day......we went back at sunset. During this time one of us had the bright idea of coming back at sunrise.

The stars were shining and I was still in bed, Dude was moving.....John was driving us to Mesa Arch in time for sunrise. We weren't the only ones and by the time we arrived 10 cars were already parked and more headlights were beaming towards us. The atmosphere was intense with anticipation and the silence welcome, but strange. Everyone eager to see the first rays of light......jostling for position I got my shots and as we were leaving more photographers were arriving. It was time for breakfast....! Then at 7.30 am we drove through the entrance at Arches NP. It was going to be a big day.

With no time to familiarise ourselves we stopped at the first viewpoint and hiked "Park Avenue" in the cool of the morning while formulating a plan for the day. We scrambled up sandstone formations called "fins" on the Devils Garden trail that looped around many iconic arches.

The heat intensified as we hiked to Skyline, Broken and Sand Dune Arches and then Fiery Furnace. Leaving Delicate Arch for sunset we drove onto Balancing Rock and onto the Windows, Turett and Double Arches. By now we were arched out and tired from our pre-dawn start and the heat!!



Looking back at Fiery Furnace

Exploring Sand Dune Arch

By now all I could think of was swimming in the pool at our next campground.

Moab - Mecca (for) outdoor adventure buffs

Standing in the Visitors Centre at Moab.....I'm feeling overwhelmed. This City packs a mighty punch in what it offers in outdoor activities and places to stay. My mind was exhausted trying to take it all in....where do we stay and for how long, what do we want to do....white water rafting, climbing, canyoning, jetboat rides, horseback riding, ballooning, jeep tours, jeep hire, ATV tours, mountain bike riding, scenic plane rides, Hummer tours, hikes to canyons-arches, motorcycle tours........and more!

While John secured a site in an RV campground,  I laden my arms up with tourist brochures and headed back to Dude, to digest some of this information, but not for long. We didn't need to be at the RV park until 4pm so we strolled down main street and ended up at the Moab Adventure Centre. Here is a link to our activity for the next day.

http://www.moabadventurecenter.com/trips/rafting/westwater.php

My eyes popped open at 5.30am, with an exciting day of whitewater rafting ahead it was time to get moving. When we arrived, the throng of participants were milling around at the front of the Adventure Centre, life jackets in hand excitedly waiting for their assigned bus. Inside I enjoyed "the best cappuccino in Moab", as stated by the framed certificate, on the counter....and it was.

Our young rafting guides entertained us on the drive up to Westwater Canyon, and the driver even had a sense of humour, stating he would find us some water to put the rafts in, because it looked like the last place of earth you would find water, and we had been driving for an hour and a half. We entertained ourselves by spotting Prairie Dogs and counting them by punching each others arms. I saw 4 Pronghorn Antelope although they were way off in the distance and could have been a manifestation of my imagination).

Shortly after put-in at Westwater

Last winters record snowfall had Colorado River running at levels not seen since the 1980's. Our guide advised that even though some of the rapids were "topped out" it would still be an adventure with the speed and level of the water adding new thrills.....whirlpools could suck the front of the raft down!

I must be crazy to be out here.....

The scenery and Canyon walls zoomed by, as we were easily making 8 knots. Our guide had to really strain to get the raft out of the current so we could go ashore and explore petroglyphs, mining cabins and have our lunch. We were expecting a nice hot day but clouds had been forming and all around you could see rain falling but it looked like it was drying before reaching the ground. Up until now we had remained relatively dry so the clouds and wind hadn't chilled us ....yet. 


Our capable guide

It was now time to enter the Westwater Canyon and experience the rapids. John and I were soaked over and over again..sitting in the front. It started to rain and the wind made it cold....I really did not want to be thrown into THAT brown, raging, couldron full of floating logs and submerged rocks and boulders. Did the guide say to hold the rescue rope facing forwards or backwards....yes backwards the life jacket had a neck piece to cushion the head and would create an air space for you to breathe.

I did it.....

It was a thrilling ride and it took some time for me to take in what I had just experienced.

Mountain Retreat

Cedar Breaks

We decided to drive to greener pastures in the mountains on Hwy 14. We drove by lots of rock slides and endless amounts of fallen trees, blown over from recent strong winds and late snow storms. Our hopes of visiting Brian's Head and Cedar Breaks was dashed as the road was still closed. We continued through lava covered terrain until we turned onto a dirt road leading to Navajo Lake. We came across a campground  covered with snow, but the gates were open, and found a level bit of ground to park on. A Ranger happened by to say that the campground was still closed and had only been snow ploughed 2 hours ago....and the contractor may come by and ask us to leave. Until then we decided to stay and enjoy the scenery.
 

John building a shoe box

Having stayed the night, the next morning we donned our life jackets and cast off in our inflatable kayak to explore the lake. But not long into our paddle the wind picked up creating white caps and strong gusts...the wind kept up all afternoon and into the night bringing with it lots of clouds.

Snow and Lava flow

The snow plough guy called by that afternoon and said "we had snuck in before he had had time to shut the gate" but since we were leaving the next morning he gave us the ok to stay for the night and asked us to lock the gate upon leaving in the morning. It felt great to have the campsite to ourselves.

Spruces Campground

Angels Landing, Subway and The Narrows



Lake Powell

We were leaving the harsh windswept desert area known as Lake Powell and along the way I was comfortable with my decision to leave hiking out to the Wave for another time....


Zion was tempting us with hikes called Angels Landing, the Narrows and the Subway. Angels Landing, where had I heard about that hike before....yes, I had read about it in a Yoga book when the author described her anxiety with heights and the fear of scrambling up cliffs with only chains to cling on to while staring down to the Canyon floor 1,500 feet below. Sounds like something we should do....




First set of Switchbacks

We made an early start at Angels Landing trail head, knowing the day was going to heat up into the 100's, and started hiking up the numerous switchbacks to the rock cut out and then it appeared the trail would end. Then turning the corner we entered into a narrow canyon that was shaded, treed and flat but not for long. Reaching the end we started to climb Walters Wiggles, another series of switchbacks, taking us up a steep climb to Scouts overlook.



Walters Wiggles

Looking down we got a great view of the Virgin River below and surrounding Canyon. We met another couple who had come back to film their ascent up the chains to Angels Landing. With camera mounted on his head they set off in front of us. I found I enjoyed this section the most. Walking over the narrow ledge and hanging onto chains to pull myself up the steep sandstone rocks made it all the more interesting and so different from any of our previous hikes. 

Navigating the climb

Crossing the narrow ridge

We got a great view from the top and sat for awhile to take it all in. Imagining the comment that sparked the  Superintendant at the time to construct Walters Wiggles, it certainly felt like a place where Angels would land.....at least before the crowds arrived. It turned out leaving early to miss the heat of the day also worked in our favour ...seeing the endless stream of people making there way up, as we made our way down.

Walking over the Narrow Ridge

Looking back to Angels Landing

With the Virgin River still flooding from the snow melt, the Narrows River hike through the narrow canyons was not yet open, so we opted to hike up to Observation Point the next day. With my fitness improving we made it up 2,000 feet in 2 hours and I wasn't out of breath...!!

Our Arizona Detour

Thoughts of riding Thunder Mountain and camping at Red Canyon were put on hold when we discovered renewal issues with our vehicle rego. After many phone calls the outcome was they required declarations and documentation. We needed a printer and photocopier and called into Kanab to dispatch the documents poste haste as our rego was about to expire.

I'd seen pictures of Antelope Slot Canyon that captured my imagination.....which spurred our detour back to Arizona. Of course there was also Glen Canyon Dam and Horseshoe Bend. So in the blink of an eye the landscape changed to baron desert and we knew we were nearing Lake Powell. By the time we settled into a campsite in Page the temps were into the 100's.

Hardhats..not for rockfall but coin throwing protection

Glen Canyon Dam

Early the next morning we sat mesmerised (probably not quite awake) in a bus travelling 2 miles down a tunnel, to the bottom of Glen Canyon Dam to raft our way to Lees Ferry. The canyon was cool and peaceful. Looking up out of the canyon it took some time to realise that the soaring birds above were huge...could they be the elusive Condors. Then floating on around to Horseshoe Bend we saw tiny specks that were people at the viewpoint above. Our guide pointed out an area where bighorn sheep make their way down the cliff to drink and to my surprise.....swim in the Colorado River. We saw fishermen in waders standing waist deep in the freezing water...got to be keen, with their boats anchored nearby. Then Lees Ferry came into view and the serenity was over. It was now school holidays and we were stepping into a bus for our return to Page. I thought of the perks of being a rafting guide and having the canyon to yourself on the return journey....!!

We arrived at the ticket booth....a wooden lean-to in the midst of dust bowl, to visit Antelope Slot Canyon. What followed was organised kaos. Bumping around in the back of an open aired jeep on a sandy riverbed we passed a bogged tour bus being pulled out. We had Japanese girls in front of us squealing, in their petite outfits and white surgical masks, as they nearly hit the roof and fell overboard. Then, as tour after tour entered into the Canyon it bottle necked inside. Dirt was cascading down from above and the occasional gusts of wind kicked up sand within the Canyon. It was pure mayhem. Our guide, who gave us some photo tips, said "you can't take a bad photo in here" and she was right. Our return trip was not without highlight either as another jeep was all but burning to a shell and all the emergency services were gathered in the parking area. I think we got the deluxe package...!!

Capturing my imagination



 Deluxe Tour's