From Wind Extremes to Canyons, Mesa's and Meandering Rivers

What can we say about Halls Crossing......except that the wind sucked us in and then blasted us out in a maelstrom of sand, 45 mph wind and a 100 degree temperatures. Our desire for serene canyon kayaking was not to be....at least for now.

As we travelled north the sand cleared from the sky but the wind didn't abate and John said Dude was like a brick wall being blown all over the place with gusts coming from all directions. All the while I didn't know which way to look. On my right was green grass plateaus and on my left were red canyons, mesa's, spires and washes. Then suddenly the terrain looked eerie with imposing grey and gold mesa's and the road was lined with green crops and trees with the Fremont River running alongside...it was really hard to comprehend the changes in landscape in one afternoon.

We arrived late afternoon at Capitol Reef NP and camped in the overflow campground. After a few days of driving it was time to unhitch our bikes and get some exercise. A dirt trail at the end of the scenic road was perfect for riding.....though I nearly fell off a few times taking photos. I think by now John had seen enough rocks (I never seem to tire of them) and he needed more activity so we then walked 2 miles into the slot canyon to see the Petroglyphs and then a 4 mile hike up a 1,000 feet to see the Golden Throne. Clouds had been developing and we assumed it would rain but instead it snowed melting as quickly as it fell. Orchards abound in the Fruita Campground ...so maybe a trip back in autumn in time to pick the fruit. We weren't disappointed in our wildlife sightings either as a herd of deer grazed through the campground and into the orchard. 

Road to Golden Throne



View hiking up to Golden Throne

 

Hiking up to Golden Throne

Golden Throne

Mexican Hat, Moki Dugway, Natural Bridges NM

The wind virtually carried us out of Monument Valley and before I could appreciate the terrain we had just experienced we were approaching the town of Mexican Hat. Now I thought this would be a rock resembling the said town, but no it turned out to be a mega ridge coloured in shades of grey and purple, circling around for miles and miles and you could imagine it was a sombrero. As if having the mighty San Juan River bisecting it wasn't enough to take in.

It was now time for Dude to have an adventure and ignoring all the huge yellow road signs advising RV's not recommended we promptly headed up the Moki Dugway, a short 1,100 foot rise on gravel with tight switchbacks....it was a bonus to get a great view of the terrrain below and it took us directly to Natural Bridges NM.

Feeling energetic we decided to hike the Canyon loop to see the 3 Natural Bridges. We just didn't want to be caught up in the throng of tourists driving around the viewpoints taking photos in a rush to get to their next destination. At first we started bushwahcking until we eventually found somewhat of a trail ...with annual flooding it's difficult to maintain a permanent trail. We followed an intermitent creek, passing refreshing groves of cottonwood trees and huge rock formations, zigzagging from the right to the left bank and scambling up the canyon walls and over rocks. The highligh of course was seeing the bridges. I really enjoyed this hike. 

Sipapu Bridge in the centre



Owachomo Bridge

Creek and interesting rock formations

Desert View, Tuba City, Navajo National Monument and Monument Valley

We weren't quite ready to leave the Grand Canyon so headed east staying a night in Desert View and got some domestic chores done. John had fun washing all the red Supai dirt out of our hiking boots and I got the washing dry between two Juniper trees.



Watchtower at Desert View

From here the view of the Canyon opens out and we could just make out the view of our 5 hour drive around to the north side. 

Next morning we were ready to move on to our next adventure. A company offered hot air balloon flights over Monument Valley, so that's where we were headed. Along the way we stopped at a wifi Cafe in Tuba City...the coffee was great and the Internet was fast....we couldn't ask for more.

That night we camped at the Navajo National Monument. To our surprise we got a view of the ancient Betatakin Cliff Dwellings, Saturdays they give a guided tour down to the site...but alas it was only Monday.



Betatakin Cliff Dwellings

Next morning Dude's monitor panel wasn't working....we needed a 3amp fuse. Back on the road a billboard came into view and had just what we were looking for, an auto parts shop in Kayenta. Soon Mesa's and Spires starting popping up and we knew Monument Valley wasn't far away.

We settled into Gouldings Campground and shorty after we arrived a rainstorm passed over kicking up red dust everywhere. An hour later we went in search of our first arch located in the rock formations behind the campground an you wouldn't have known it rained.

We contacted the hot air ballon company about booking a ballon flight over Monument Valley. Unfortunately for us, the desert wind wasn't going to let up until possibly next Tuesday...it was only Monday.

We did get an open air experience viewing the mesa's in a jeep tour and the desert wind just didn't let up....!!

Rim2Rim - What goes down must come up

Our night in Bright Angel Camp had me thinking about our wonderful trip to Havasupai with the roar of the Creek echoing off the Canyon walls.

Knowing we had two days climbing ahead I was determined to see how well I could do. I hoped to set a good pace and maintain it for the remainder of my trip. 

We left Bright Angel Camp and for the first mile and a half we followed the Colorado River before turning uphill. To my surprise a Creek was running beside the trail which gave me an opportunity to wet my bandana and keep my cool....!!

Up and up we went and at every turn the view would change giving a different perspective and another Kodak moment.........  

.

Looking back we could see how far we had climbed but looking up gave us only scant idea of what lay ahead. So far the climb up seemed to be easier than going downhill. Maybe after 2 days the altitude training was kicking in.

As the day was beginning to heat up it was a welcome relief to hike into the shade of Indian Garden campground.

Later that afternoon we hiked out to Plateau Point and had an "ooh aaah" moment looking down at the Colorado River and watching two river rafting boats navigate the rapids. The wind picked up and rain started to fall but it dried as soon as it hit the ground. It looked like the North Rim was going to get all the rain.We watched a group of Turkey Vultures soaring in the sky as we sat on the rocks and chatted to our campsite neighbours. 

We made plans before going to bed to sleep in the next morning and relax during the hottest part of the day and hike out between 3 and 4pm.

All too quickly our last day arrived. It felt unusual to sleep in and it took some effort to lie in until 7.30. The best part was not having to rush eating breakfast. For some reason knowing we were down to our last rations just made me hungrier and all I could think about was food....!!

We spent some time sitting under a tree cooling our feet in the Creek looking at some panoramic Grand Canyon books from the Ranger Station. After some time we seemed to be in the middle of great activity. A group of mule riders had stopped for lunch on their way to Phantom Ranch. I chatted to a Kentuckian couple and somehow when they left I had more food than I knew what to do with.....Oreo's, nuts and fruit juice. Ahhhh it was time for a cuppa tea and a biscuit.

We got away as planned around 3.50pm and I could really feel the 90 degree heat beating down. Soon we would be in the shade and every mile and a half was a rest station and water. I was keeping to my pace and determined to reach each rest station in a certain time. It was the best I had ever felt while hiking.

Soon we would be at the top and it would all be over. So we stopped occasionally just to take it all in.



As we inched higher up the trail the atmosphere became very friendly. We would pass familiar faces and then as we rested they would pass us. By the end we were encouraging them and vise versa.

When we neared the top I had an overwhelming feeling to share our experience with someone I knew so it was nice that we made it to the end about the same time as our new trail buddies.  

 

We did it.....woohooo ! 9.5 miles and 4,380 feet UP.

On our way to Dude, to our surprise, our memories of Havasupai didn't end in the Canyon because we came across an Arizona Outback Adventure van parked nearby. We had a quick shower and finished as we began with a burger and a beer...!!

Rim2Rim - What goes down

How cool, I was in a winter wonderland in the middle of May. As we descended the snow turned into a gentle rain making the trail a red slippery mess....so we slid down the trail for awhile.

The wind picked up and I was grateful to be wearing a pair of socks as gloves because they were doing a great job of keeping my hands warm. Every now and then the clouds would shift and we got a glimpse of  Roaring Springs Canyon ahead. My discomfort was quickly forgotten as the excitement of just being here took over. All too soon the tall canyon walls and narrow ledges widened out as Roaring Springs came into view and we sheltered under a tree, to soak !! in the view, while having a bite to eat.  

Getting into Cottonwood Campground mostly dry was a bonus but as we were preparing to set up our tent another shower had us scambling for cover under the eaves of the Rangers Residence. It was still early in the day so in between the rain showers we managed to dry everything out on the backpack stands.

We watched and chatted to fellow hikers and Rim2Rim runners and ventured over river rocks to watch Bright Angel Creek roar on by. By then my hunger pains were taking over and it was time to cook dinner. Daylight started to fade, I was fading. It was time to turn in.

It rained all night until just before we got up the next morning....

We woke to clearing skies but a 1000 feet above was blanketed in snow. We spoke to some runners who said it had been blizzard conditions during the night. Glad to be continuing down in elevation to warmer weather we stopped at Ribbon Falls. A beautiful sight within the dry rocky landscape. Ribbon Falls reminded us of our memorable trip to Havasupai in 2009.

On through The Box, a very deep narrow canyon following Bright Angel Creek and despite it's notoriety for extreme temperatures and my anxiety about the heat, I cruised through with 2.5 litres of water to spare.

  

We arrived late morning at Bright Angel Campsite. Now that it was warmer our wet tent was dry within minutes!!  

Later in the afternoon we walked  the loop to the suspension bridges and finally got our feet wet in the mighty Colorado River.

After 14 miles and 5761 feet what goes down must now go up.......  

Rim2Rim - Our walk in the Park

With growing anticipation we parked Dude at the Back Country Office and hiked up to the Bright Angel Lodge to catch the Trans Canyon shuttle but not before we feasted on a burger and beer (and a cappuccino for me !) that should get us down the hill and back up again.

We were treated to another sighting of a coyote and lots of deer during our drive through the meadows on the North Rim. Reluctantly we stepped out of the warm bus and made our way to our campsite and quickly donned all our clothing....the forecast was for a foot of snow tonight and tomorrow. 

We immediately made friends with our neighbours who had a roaring fire going and they invited us to stay. So instead of hastily cooking up dinner and going to bed early we chatted to our new friends and toasted ourselves by the fire until after 9pm. I was surprisingly toasty all night in my sleeping bag with my hot water bottle, 8 handwarmers, lightweight thermals, wet weather gear and anything else I could find in my pack.

The snow began on our hike to the trailhead.......

John hiking through winter snow

Our first week in the Grand Canyon

We left Laughlin and the Colorado River and headed east for what turned out to be a food fest...cappuccino in Kingman and burgers at the Snow Cap in Seligman, a quaint 50's route 66 town. Clouds had been looming in the sky ahead of us all day and by the time we arrived in Williams it was snowing...!!

Our excitement at arriving in the Grand Canyon was made even greater when we got to see an elk and some deer on our way to our campsite. After  parking "Dude" our RV we rode out bikes at break neck speed to get to the Back Country Permit Office before closing at 5pm. We made it with 10 mins to spare. With big smiles we walked out with a permit for Cottonwood Campsite on the north Kaibab Trail. Four mornings later and a few flat bike tires....we had all the permits we needed to backpack from the North Rim to the South Rim.

In between our ear;y morning rides down to the permit office we got up early one morning and hiked partway down the South Kaibab Trail and another afternoon we walked 9 miles out to Hermits Rest to watch the sunset.

Our sightings of wildlife is growing.....after our bear experience we have seen 2 coyotes, lots of deer and can you believe a herd of elk came walking though our campsite right next to our RV.

The Buck realises I'm in between him and some of his harem....!!!

Where California, Arizona and Nevada meet



We found a lovely spot along the Kern River and camped the night after a day of shopping in Bakersfield.  The river was up and flowing fast and many people including the Fire and Rescue Services were enjoying a fast kayak run down the river and performing rescue drills.

With the sides of the RV bulging after restocking in Bakersfield we detoured off the I40 to a campsite in the Mojave National Preserve. We found it closed but decided to stay the afternoon enjoying the view of wildflowers and the peace and quiet...well that is except for the wind. We decided to stay the night and drive on to Needles the next day but by midnight the wind had turned into a full on gale and we had to get up and move in fear that the RV would be uplifted to Kansas.

Mojave National Preserve

We knew we were out of California when we crossed the Colorado River and the the gas prices dropped from $4.89 to $3.65....!! We stayed the night in Laughlin on the river at the Davis Recreation area and walked into Nevada for dinner at one of the many Casinos.



Davis Recreation Area Campground

The next morning after a quick dip in the Colorado River we set out for the Grand Canyon.